Surfing a Monster Wave-Recount

On a hot sunny day I went to the beach.I Was seasick because it was freezing. I got in to the sea I vomited in the sea because it was freezing. When I got on my surfboard it was slippery. The wave began to form into place. The wave got very gigantic then it got powerful and slammed me. That was the time that I let go of the rope. The wave''SMASHED'' at me . After that, a lifeguard came and rescue me but when I got to shore I couldn't move my leg and back. Just then my Mum came and I was rushed to the ambulance. My Mum came with me in the ambulance too.